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I learned how to use a camera with these,
a pair of Canon cameras given to me by a close

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family friend.

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This one in particular, the Canon F-1, is
delightful to use.

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Of course people familiar with the Canon T90
will know that it is arguably the best manual

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focus camera Canon ever made, but the vintage
charm, clunky feel, and primitive operation

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of the F-1 made it my preferred go-to because
I’m weird and eccentric.

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I first got my hands on these in 2007, when
a digital SLR was well out of reach for me.

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At the time, ordinary print film could still
be purchased pretty much everywhere, and Costco

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would develop a roll for $1.89.

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Much cheaper than spending a thousand dollars
on a decent DSLR and lens to go with it.

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Anyway, the one thing I needed was a competent
film scanner, as I planned to just pay to

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have the film developed, then scan it at a
high resolution--a roundabout way of having

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a digital camera.

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I ended up buying a refurbished Epson scanner,
and it had a feature I didn’t really understand

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at the time, but which was really cool: Digital
ICE.

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Digital ICE may sound like the most nineties
things ever, but in fact the ICE standards

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for Image Correction and Enhancement.

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The system used in film scanners was developed
by Kodak at their Austin Research Center,

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though at the time it was referred to as Applied
Science Fiction which is a much better name.

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I’m not sure exactly when the system was
released but it probably was in the nineties,

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as this PC magazine article from 1998 seems
totally amazed at the new Nikon Super Coolscan

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2000.

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Let’s join together in a brief moment of
silence for Kodak.

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You had it all, and then you just…

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Yeah.

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So, what does Digital ICE actually do?

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Well, it’s a dust and scratch removal feature
that works almost miraculously well.

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It can make an image go from this, to this.

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Some absolute purists will insist on never
using it because it softens the image slightly

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and ...ehhh... but most people with this attitude
just scare people away from photography altogether.

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Side-note

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Photography enthusiasts tend to get hung up
on specs like color accuracy, sharpness, compression,

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file format, and more to a pedantic level.

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I understand that professional photographers
want and need the best equipment and will

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work to find the best methods, but for amateurs
like myself this sometimes works to create

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lingering self-doubt.

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Forum threads arguing about which camera is
best, which settings you should use, why you

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should NEVER use jpegs, etc. can end up making
those reading the thread worry that they’re

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not choosing the optimal methods, and that
somehow their work is worse for it.

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My advice?

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Do what you think is best.

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Did the automatic color correction make it
look better to you?

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If yes, go ahead and use it.

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Don’t go down the rabbit hole of chasing
technical perfection at the expense of exploring

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your own creativity.

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If it looks good to you, that’s all that
matters.

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With that out of the way, let’s get back
to the subject at hand because it’s freaking

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cool!

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To show you, I’ve scanned some film.

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This long-lost set of negatives has been sitting
around, gathering dust.

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So, when scanned, they looked like this.

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Dust on the film will appear white because
the dust blocks light, which the scanner interprets

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correctly as dark spots, but as the film contains
a negative image, it has to be inverted, and

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these dust spots get inverted to bright white
when rendering the image as a positive.

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But, when you scan them with Digital ICE,
they look like this.

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Pretty crazy, right!

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But what’s even cooler, is how this works.

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First a bit about the scanner.

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This is not the same scanner that I started
with.

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In fact, this was one of those rare Goodwill
finds where you ask yourself if it was donated

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by mistake.

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It’s a $210 dollar purchase today on Amazon,
and it cost well more than that at the time

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I picked it up for this paltry sum.

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And it’s a substantial upgrade from my old
one as it uses LEDs as its illumination source,

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and not cold cathode fluorescent lights which
require warm-up.

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You’ll see why that’s so important later
on.

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This is a flatbed scanner like any ordinary
document scanner, and when scanning a photograph

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or a piece of paper, the scanner uses two
rows of LEDs to illuminate whatever it’s

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scanning, and between them lies a single row
of really tiny light sensors that build an

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image as the scanning head dutifully travels
below the glass.

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But this doesn’t work to scan film, because
light needs to travel through the film and

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not reflect off of it.

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What separates this scanner from an ordinary
one is a second light source located in the

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lid of the scanner.

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This functions as a travelling backlight,
and it follows the scanning head to allow

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for scanning film.

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Film scanners are also separated from their
document brothers by a very high resolution

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scanning array.

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This scanner’s sensor is capable of resolving
6,400 pixels per inch, meaning it can produce

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a theoretical image with dimensions over 6,000
by 9,000 pixels from a standard frame of film,

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or an over 54 megapixel image.

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In nearly all cases this is overkill to the
extreme, and it’s likely that this consumer-grade

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scanner’s stepper motors can’t reliably
move in small enough increments to actually

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resolve that resolution in the Y dimension
anyway, but still.

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Impressive.

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For the record, I usually scan at 3,200 DPI
which is able to resolve the grain of many

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films.

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Now, to the fun part.

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When you use Digital ICE, the scanner actually
scans each negative or slide twice.

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You’ll hear it get into position, make one
pass of a scan, then the backlight and scanning

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head return to their parked position.

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But right when they stop, you hear a click.

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That click is the light source switching from
your standard issue white light, to infrared.

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You can see this with a smartphone camera--many
smartphone cameras detect infrared light and

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render it as a purplish glow.

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This is also handy for seeing if remote control
batteries are any good.

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You see, the film itself is mostly transparent
to infrared light, but dust on the film will

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block it from coming through.

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When the scanner makes it way through the
second time, it will see an image that is

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completely empty except for where dust lies
on the film.

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Scratches and oils from fingerprints will
distort the infrared light, and the scanner

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can detect this distortion, too.

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The result is that on the second pass, the
scanner will produce an image composed only

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of where scratches, dust, or general defects
are located on the film.

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After it’s scanned the second time, software
inside the scanner creates a composite of

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the two images.

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It will use the data on where scratches and
dust are to remove affected areas of the image.

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It will then fill these areas in using information
from what’s around them, and it usually

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does a bang-up job.

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I am always impressed with how well this works.

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Now of course it’s not perfect, there are
some artifacts here that it didn’t completely

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remove, but what’s remarkable is that in
most places, it appears to be completely flawless.

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The algorithm responsible for deciding what
to fill in the empty space with is so good

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that it mimics the grain structure of the
film itself.

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You would have no idea that this area has
been retouched.

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Pixel-peeping shows that Digital ICE had almost
no effect on the clarity of the image, and

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appears to have done nothing except remove
flaws.

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Here are some slides.

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I shot some rolls of slide film, too, which
looked like this without dusting.

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Observe how well digital ICE is able to take
care of really dusty slides.

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I’d like to take another brief side-note.

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There’s something magical about slide film
to me.

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This IS the photograph.

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A slide is just a piece of the very film that
was in your camera mounted in cardboard or

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plastic so you and slide projectors can interact
with it easily and without touching it.

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Unlike today where cameras save digital files
of ones and zeros which you need a device

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to be able to interpret, slide film becomes
a literal photograph.

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The light that came through the lens and landed
on the film behind it looked nearly exactly

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like this.

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It’s just really cool to me to be holding
a physical object that captured light and

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through processing became an actual copy of
that light.

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Anyway, here is where Digital ICE can sometimes
be detrimental.

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Images with lots of detail tend to obscure
dust on their own, particularly with slides

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as the dark dust is harder to notice than
the bright white dust from negatives.

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Sometimes it really is better to not use digital
ICE, as complex images can be too much for

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the algorithm.

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This image in particular seemed relatively
defect-free, but Digital ICE saw a bit of

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dust here, and didn’t really know how to
re-fill in the detail of the sign.

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To be honest, it would have been better to
leave this alone, though it is admittedly

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a tiny portion of the image.

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Hey look, Kodak!

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Same with this photograph, though it was very
dusty, the cacophonous nature of the leaves

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and organic material on the ground made it
hard to notice, and this bit of dust shows

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how things can go wrong.

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It’s not hard to see once you know it’s
there, but it’s easy to ignore.

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Digital ICE certainly saw it, and its imperfect
correction ended up making it much more noticeable.

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Digital ICE tends to do better in areas that
are low-detail such as the sky or on clothing,

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as the algorithm can rely on adjacent areas
to fill in the defect.

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In these cases it merely has to mimic the
grain structure and color of the areas next

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to the defect.

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If any sort of pattern or high level of detail
surrounds the problem area, it can in some

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cases end up making the defect more noticeable
as it fails to convincingly fill it in.

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Digital ICE also has a few technical limitations.

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It can only be used on color negative film
or E-6 process slides, which includes most

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color slides such as Ektachrome and Fuji Velvia.

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Conventional black and white film doesn’t
work because with this film, the image is

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composed of silver molecules.

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These molecules block light from passing through, and that's how

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it creates the dark areas of the film.

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The silver will also block the infrared light
on the second scan, so when you use Digital

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ICE, the scanner will see the exact same image
from both passes.

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It’s smart enough to realize there’s nothing
it can do, and doesn’t bother trying,

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so you just don’t get any help.

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However, C41 process black and white film,
which can be identified by its orange film

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base rather than the gray of true black-and-white
film, can use Digital ICE.

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This type of black-and-white film was mainly
sold in stores as a novelty film, designed

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to be compatible with the standard C41 color
development process.

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Images on this film are composed of dyes like
in normal color film, and these dyes are transparent

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to infrared.

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So, Digital ICE still works with this film.

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Kodachrome slide film also doesn’t behave
too well with Digital ICE, though it can depending

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on the slide.

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In this case, the cyan dye in the film can
absorb some of the infrared light, which occasionally

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becomes detected as a defect.

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The scanner might try to remove things it
shouldn’t, and the results can be weird.

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I don’t have any Kodachrome slides to test
this on, as although Simon and Garfunkel tried

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their best to convince her otherwise, mama
took my Kodachrome away in 2010.

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However, google Kodachrome and Digital ICE
and you’ll see some good examples.

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I’ll link a particularly good one in the
description.

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The biggest drawback to using Digital ICE
is that it more than doubles the time it takes

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to scan film, an already a tediously slow
process.

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Which brings me back to why this scanner is
such an upgrade from my old one.

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The CCFL backlight of my old scanner required
about a one minute warmup between each successive

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scan when using Digital Ice, as the lamp would
cool back down during the infrared scan.

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This made using it a real chore.

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A fully loaded film holder would take another
12 minutes on top of the more than doubled

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scan time needed for the second scan and image
processing.

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This could easily make scanning 12 negatives
take over a half hour.

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It still takes this scanner about twice as
long to perform a scan with Digital ICE, but

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I think it works wonders.

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Like I said before, some people refuse to
use it, and it is true that for slides and

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negatives that aren’t damaged, a duster
spray can is capable of producing a nearly

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flawless image.

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And it’s also true that Digital ICE can
occasionally produce weird glitches of its

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own, like how it made this piece of dust look
worse after correction.

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But I still think being able to go from this,
to this, without any sort of input is just

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amazing.

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When it works, which it usually does, it’s
nothing short of awesome.

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Thanks for watching, I hope you learned something
interesting in this Tech Exploration (though

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if you’re a photography buff, you probably
didn’t).

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If you’re new to this channel and you liked
what you saw, why not subscribe?

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There’s more on the way.

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I’d also like to thank all of my Patreon
supporters for making this channel possible.

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Your contributions are appreciated each and
every day.

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I’ll see you next time.

